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| Evening wear, around
1890. The vest is black, the tie is white. The only
significant differences between modern and Victorian
tails are the lower hem of the coat front, which
was straight across in the 19th Century, and dips
down in the 20th, and a similar difference in the
cut of the vest. |
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Evening
Wear
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Gentleman's evening wear changed hardly at all from
around 1860 until the 1920s. It was a unvarying uniform
of black tail coat, white bow tie, black or white vest
(there seems to have been some personal latitude in
selecting a vest--black being the most common) and black
trousers, with a white, heavily starched shirt. The
only thing that changed was the collar, which became
tall and stiff around 1890.
Outdoors, evening wear would be worn with a silk top
hat and a black cape or overcoat.
White gloves were an essential accessory, especially
when dancing, as touching a lady with bare hands was
not only a bit crude, but one's sweat could soil her
gown.
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| Note the watch fob on this natty
gent from the early 1900s |
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| "A gentleman retains his 'walking' or 'morning'
attire until six or seven o'clock when he dresses for
the evening" |
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"Everybody's Book"
1893
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| "The evening or full dress suit for gentlemen is
a black dress-suit--a 'swallow tail' coat, the vest cut
low, the cravat white, and kid gloves of the palest hue
or white. The shirt front should be white and plain; the
studs and cuff buttons simple. Especial attention should
be given to the hair, which should be neither short nor
long. It is better to err on the too short side, as too
long hair savors of affectation, destroys the shape of
the physiognomy, and has a touch of vulgarity about it.
Evening dress is the same for a large dinner party, a
ball or an opera. In some circles, however, evening dress
is considered to be an affectation, and it is well to
do as others do. On Sunday, morning dress is worn, and
on that day of the week no gentleman is expected to appear
in evening dress, either at church, at home or away from
home. Gloves are dispensed with at dinner parties, and
pale colors [of gloves] are preferred to white for evening
wear." |
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"Our Deportment"
1882
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| "The attire in which a gentleman can present himself in a ball room admits of so little variety, that it can be described in a few words.
He must wear a black dress coat, black trousers and a black vest, and a black or white necktie and kid gloves, and patent leather pumps.
This is imperative, the ball suit should be of the very best cloth and of the latest style as to cut. The vest should be cut low, so as to disclose an ample shirt front. Small gold or diamond studs may be used with effect. Much display of jewelry is a proof of bad taste. A handsome watch chain with perhaps the addition of a few costly trifles suspended to it, and a set of shirt studs, are the only adornments of this kind that a gentleman should wear. Perfume should only be used for the handkerchief, and should be of the very best and most delicate character."
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"Prof. M. J. Koncen's quadrille call book and ball-room guide"
1883 |
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| This man is from around 1870. Note
the soft collar and watchchain. |
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"When a gentleman is invited out for the evening, he
is under no embarrassment as to what he shall wear. He has
not to sit down and consider whether he shall wear blue or
pink, or whether the Joneses will notice if he wear the same
attire three times running. Fashion has ordained for him that
he shall always be attired in a black dress suit in the evening,
only allowing him a white waistcoat as an occasional relief
to his toilette. His necktie must be white or light colored.
An excess of jewelry is to be avoided but he may wear gold
or diamond studs, and a watch chain. He may also wear a flower
in his buttonhole, for this is one of the few allowable devices
by which he may brighten his attire.
Plain and simple as the dress is, it is a sure test of a
gentlemanly appearance. The man who dines in evening dress
every night of his life looks easy and natural in it, whereas
the man who takes to it late in life generally succeeds in
looking like a waiter."
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The Ball Room Guide. 1860
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